Undertaking Australia’s renowned Overland Track in the depths of a Tasmanian winter was an experience I had long anticipated. Tales of knee-deep snow, biting winds, and frozen landscapes had set my expectations high for a challenging, intrepid expedition that would test my endurance and my love for wild places. While Tasmania’s rugged beauty did not disappoint, the reality of the trek turned out to be different from the adventure I had envisioned.
In the summer months, the Overland Track is managed with the utmost precision, ensuring that a limited number of hikers depart each day. It can be crowded, of course, but the numbers are capped, so you don’t feel like you’re walking the streets of New York. Surprisingly, from the moment I set foot on the trail for this winter expedition, I was struck not by the elements but by the sheer number of fellow hikers. The Overland Track had evidently gained popularity even in winter, a time once reserved for the most intrepid souls. I was taken aback by the crowded huts, where securing a spot felt more like a competitive sport than the quiet ritual I had imagined.
This was my first trek in what is often called the hiking capital of Australia and I must admit, I had naively believed that Australia didn’t have any ‘true’ mountains. How wrong I was! We started the route from the south, and on day one, I was greeted by mountains like The Acropolis and Mt. Geryon, which perfectly embody Tasmanian peaks—rugged sculptures with sharp dolerite columns, amidst expansive alpine plateaus. This idea of Australia’s mountains being less formidable was quickly dispelled as we passed through deep valleys towered by these peaks.
Mt. Geryon and surrounding peaks from Bert Nichols Hut (Windy Ridge)
Cradle Mountain poking through the morning mist (1,545m)
The huts themselves are remarkably well-equipped, more akin to makeshift ski lodges than the rustic shelters I expected. Their warmth and light were a welcome relief from the cold, but they also seemed to diminish the need for self-reliance. I’ve always considered myself a purist on the trail, carrying all that I need and relying on nothing more than what I bring. Yet, even I found myself drawn to the comfort of the huts, especially after a particularly wet night in which my tent, sleeping bag and sleeping mat had been soaked from the ground up – my fault! While I expected to meet some like-minded nature enthusiasts at the end of each day’s expedition, the reality was quite different. The level of comfort had, in my opinion, drawn a crowd far less enticed by the endless waterfalls and snow-covered peaks.
Waterfall Valley Hut (opened 2020)
The trail itself was beautiful, offering endlessly changing terrain—dense forests, alpine plateaus, deep valleys, and jagged rock formations that resembled miniature versions of the Dolomites or Torres Del Paine. However, I noticed significant trail braiding in some sections due to the buildup of water on the main path. This revealed a lack of preparation in both gear and mental fortitude among some hikers, who preferred to damage the surrounding environment rather than get their feet wet. While regulating the number of people hiking at any given time may seem controlling or restrictive by the National Parks, it ultimately keeps the parks healthy and preserves the purity of your experience.
The Overland Track provides many opportunities to deviate from the main path and explore, and the chance to leave the trail to attempt the summit of Tasmania’s highest mountain in winter was something we couldn’t resist. As we punched through the cloud cover to reveal the somewhat exposed climb to the summit of Mt. Ossa, the expansive vistas of the Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park became clear.
The summit of Mt. Ossa on a cold and windy day looking down on Frog’s Flats (1,617m)
The surprise that I did not foresee, was that the ‘winter’ aspect would invite a different crowd to that of the summer months. It did not. It was evident that the fame the Overland track has created has meant people will take any opportunity to walk the track, even in conditions that could prove difficult. For those seeking an adventure much like the popular Great Walks of New Zealand, with postcard-worthy views around every corner and a more comfortable accommodation experience, this Tassie walk has the right formula for you. While taking advantage of the main trail comforts, there is also the opportunity to deviate for additional adventure, with side hits such as Mt. Ossa, Cradle Mountain and D’alton Falls to name a few. Or in my case, taking the liberty to have an ‘ice’ bath every day in the surrounding lakes, waterfalls or rivers that seemed to envelop each hut.
D’alton Falls, one of three grand waterfalls between Bert Nichols Hut and Kia Ora Hut
However, for those seeking a truly raw, untamed adventure that the Overland Track once promised, you might want to look elsewhere. Trails like the Frenchmans Cap in the Franklin-Gordon Wild Rivers National Park or the Western Arthurs Traverse in the deep southwest offer the solitude and challenge that intrepid adventurers crave. The Overland Track, in its current state, is still a journey worth taking, but for those of us yearning for something more—something wild and unspoiled—it may be time to seek out the lesser-known trails.
To find out more about my experience or to ask any questions, feel free to email me at [email protected]
